King and Queen of Comp Climbing in Japan: An Exclusive Tour of Tomoa Narasaki and Akiyo Noguchi’s Home Gym

In rural Japan, Tomoa Narasaki and Akiyo Noguchi have established a training facility that is nothing short of extraordinary. The gym, often referred to as the king and queen of comp climbing in Japan, features top-notch facilities fit for royalty. Recently, Magnus Midtbø had the privilege of visiting their home gym and capturing the experience in a video.

The training facility is equipped with three large bouldering walls, including both comp-style and spray wall sets, an 18-metre lead wall with eight bolt lines, a full-sized speed wall, as well as a truck with a platform lift to aid in setting routes. Additionally, there is a spacious training room complete with weights and exercise equipment. Midtbø was in awe of the gym, describing it as the craziest he has ever seen and comparing it to a commercial gym available exclusively for Narasaki and Noguchi’s use.

Narasaki’s impressive climbing career boasts multiple gold medals at Boulder World Cups and World Championships, solidifying his status as a top competitor. He has already qualified for the upcoming Paris Olympics after achieving notable success at previous events. Noguchi, on the other hand, has retired as one of the most decorated comp-climbing boulderers in history. Her impressive record includes over 21 gold medals in World Cup and World Championship competitions, establishing her as a legend in the sport. She has also claimed numerous silver and bronze medals throughout her illustrious career.

With their remarkable accomplishments and dedication to the sport